Tbilisi, Georgia
Yes yes, Georgia is all about its wonderful unique historic wine scene and no visit would be compete without a thorough introduction to qvevri wine. However, along with a very exciting small-batch spirits scene, craft beer is a-happenin in Tbilisi, and though it’s still considered very much a trendy niche interest (read hipster), there are more beer bars and breweries in the city than you might imagine – so many in fact that between my wine and spirits tastings I was unable to run the full gamut. Regular readers know this says a lot. Nonetheless, I was able to pop by enough to give y’all a little rundown, should you fancy a trip to Tbilisi, and while the scene varies a lot, there are some proper gems. So its completely worth taking a little time away from wine and spirits to investigate.
We’ll do a quick gallop through the six locations I visited, followed by a summary of those I didn’t and a few other must-visit bars in Tbilisi (because why not?!). As Tbilisi isn’t the most compact city, you may expect an out-of-town hipster enclave where the craft beer bars gather. This is not the case. A surprising number are located in easy reach of Liberty Square in the centre of town. As this is also the start and finish point for most city tours it’s easy to combine them with a few beer bars. Those located further afield are a relatively cheap cab ride away so are still easy to explore.
Do be aware the advertised opening hours mean nothing in Georgia. Time feels like a relative concept and bars (along with other businesses including restaurants) operate when they feel like it. Also, the majority of beer bars tend to open later in the day – 4pm is an early start – which is a bloody nuisance for visitors on a tight schedule so it’s best to brace yourself for a bit of frustration. The good news is that when things work, they really work here, so tough it out and know there will be something amazing around the corner.
Tsota Tsota (by Megobrebi Brewery)
Located just minutes from Liberty Square, this popular outpost of Megobrebi Brewing is a must-visit for the curious drinker. A cute arched space with exposed whitewashed brick and simple (very clean) bar furniture. They serve their own beers plus a few guest taps and homemade liqueurs, low conical lights keep the mood chilled and stylish mural art and artfully arranged beer bottle shelves keep the decor stylish and clean-lined. Megobrebi advertises itself as being edgy and outre and their menu boasts off-piste ingredients like chokeberry, tkemali plum, sea buckthorn and rowan berry along with a tomato gose which seems to be the hot ticket around here (have seen multiple versions on sale – this is the first I’ve tried). Guests are a mix of locals and tourists and the place filled up quickly soon after our arrival. Flights come with six 0.1l pours which is perfect for the menu-curious. While Megobreibi might revel in their cray-cray, they have the chops to deliver on their most far-fetched creations. I’m not a sucker for novelty beer so I don’t say lightly that Megobrebi shine best when they’re turning it to eleven. While their coconut imperial stout and grape ale are kinda adequate, it’s their bonkers creations like the Makotse 14.7% and Shavi Zgva smoothie sours where they really shine. The former is so hefty ya could stand a spoon up in it but it’s intense chokeberry, cranberry, physalis, gooseberry and sea buckthorn maceration and infusion plays with texture and flavour to deliver a clever, grown-up version of the popular dessert-style smoothie sours that overrun our taprooms. The latter is on the next level and may have escaped from a 19th century apothecary. While it won’t please everyone with its intense medicinal bitterness which is offset by well-placed vegetal carrot sweetness, I personally was tickled. And the tomato gose. A michelada it ain’t but it’s a fun spicy juicy trip that has to be tried. This is a must-visit stop for beer lovers – suspend your disbelief and embrace the unusual.
SMA craft beer bar
This cute hole in the wall is a fun blend of hipster cafe and dive with a short but sweet rotating draft list and local bottles and cans for drink-in and to-go. Between the peeling paint, woodchip, lace curtains and board games you might think you’re in a Georgian version of an early Pulp video, and I’m not saying you’re wrong. Thanks to the kitschy decor I finally know who Modern Talking are – and boyo those are some hairdos. Following our first flying visit where we picked up what seems to be Georgia’s only proper-bitter WCIPA we picked a draft dark ale collab between Underground and Chito breweries – Pupuneba, robust bitter burnt-roast and dry, clocking in at a surprising 7.8%, and Underground’s bottled Quad – a princely 8.9% with a solid flavour but lacking slightly in weight. Another tourist/local mixed vibe and a food menu extensive and interesting enough to make me hungry. An elderly piano used as a cat food table, kitschy china ornaments and a framed image of Kurt Cobain complete the vibe. Check in out.
Tiny taproom in an industrial suburb. Most beers are sold to go via popular delivery app Wolt – literally folks can order fresh beer to be delivered in plastic bottles which the owner pours fresh from a bespoke device which fills bottles only via a complicated system of pouring and preventing overspill foam that I’ve never seen anywhere else. To drink in, glasses are poured via plastic bottle. Meeting the owner, he explained that most customers don’t drink in at all so all the more props to him for bothering to have an indoor space and making it pretty with fairy lights and cute retro pictures. He also has an extremely well-stocked fridge including the first sighting of Sierra Nevada (or any US brewery) I’ve had in Georgia, as well as international faves including the might Pohjala. Beer styles keep it straight with two notable exceptions: the tomato gose which seems to be a local classic (the owner tells me the style originates from Russia) and a tarragon sour whose moss-green appearance may be unusual but harbours an exceptional gentle umami flavour that had me coming back for more. Tarragon is, we are told, a very popular flavour here and it works perfectly with a subtle kettle sour base. While the WCIPA was a bit on the heavy and sweet side, the tomato gose leaned into a strong garlic-herb profile giving it full gespacho characteristics. While pretty far out of the way, I’d consider this a must if hitting up the incredible Abkhazian regional cuisine at nearby Amra, the only restaurant to serve this variety of food from this contested area in Tbilisi. Being in the sticks isn’t always a bad thing (Londoners will know the importance of having proper local craft beer sources) and while you can Wolt it, it’d definitely recommend a short taxi ride out to the mothership.
Proclaiming itself to have the largest selection of craft beer taps in Tbilisi, Seven Roads is a large underground space with large Untappd menu screens showing off its status as a verified venue. At less than two years old, Seven Roads exudes enthusiasm and dare-I-say-it genuine passion for craft beer, none of the casual blasé-bordering-contempt vibes of so many contemporary beer bars. The menu includes brews from popular Georgia breweries including Underground, Agara, Chito and Seahorse, as well as Russian microbreweries including Selfmade, Ability and Coma. This is the place to hit up for a protracted session checking out as much and as many local and regional brews as you can squeeze in, and the friendly and highly knowledgeable staff will help guide you through a sea of hyperlocal styles and ingredients like the ubiquitous tomato gose, as well as interpretations of more traditional styles – don’t worry – you can still get a hazy IPA should the need arise. While we unfortunately only had time for a brief stop, squeezing in a lovely bright TBP persimmon gose and pleasantly roasty SeaHorse Ebony Stout, Seven Roads made an excellent impression despite the increasingly rowdy improv performance going on (check their events calendar on Instagram before you go – those guys make noise). When asked for specialty wild ales we were handed a bottle of exactly what we wanted which we took to go (will share details once we’ve drunk it!), and their range of over 100 bottles and cans means there is definitely something for everyone. How this cavernous space will fair in a hot Georgian summer gives pause for consideration, but as rainy-spring visitors it was cosy despite its size. Located close to Fabrika, Seven Roads is easy to reach, and expect a similar hip international crowd. They also deliver via Wolt if you’re feeling lazy – no judgement.
With its central location and solid selection, Process is possibly Tbilisi’s best known craft beer bar. Its bijou size means you’re squished up with your neighbours which can go either way, as we discovered. Unfortunately, we had our worst experience in Georgia at Process, where we were accosted by intoxicated Albanian nazis (promise I’m not making this up), but realistically this could have happened absolutely anywhere – the only factor making Process a bit more scumbag-friendly is its location on one of the city’s main thoroughfares. That said, do be prepared for a less beer-nerd vibe than other places on this list – it does seem to be somewhere folks stumble into as much as a beer destination, and although we did meet some friendly folks too, don’t expect the conversation to focus on the contents of your glass. With approximately 50 beers available including a handful of taps serving their own beers, Process is worth checking out. We tried brews from Underground, NaturAle and Megobrebi – NaturAle’s Tkemali Gose was a fun beery rendition of a local garlicky sauce (yes, that really was good), but Underground’s Thin Line cardamom gose really stole the show. Less good were the Megobrebi Imperial IPA (stick to the sours), while Process’s own beers were all decent if not setting the world on fire. Its graffiti-strewn walls may feel a bit try-hard but their selection of local brews is solid. Of course, Wolt is always an option, even for their house beers which, like Agara’s, are sold in plastic bottles.
2Tona (Freedom Square branch)
Clean light modern-industrial setting with nicely leafy patio and obligatory giant screens. Menu covers standard styles with a few wildish cards. There are four locations around the city. The food menu is extensive and includes local specialties as well as classic pub/bar fare – you’ll find Georgian khachapuri nestled next to pepperoni pizza. There is even a surprising (?!) Tex-mex menu. Hmmmm. More interesting sounding items include shin of pork boiled in craft beer and sausage firm special – enquiring minds need to know. Ditto for something called ‘two minute service’ which is trust about as far as I could throw it. On to the beer – flights are three 0.15ml pours. We went for the Czech pils, honey ale & fruited sour (last two both specials). The ‘sour’ is distinctly Ribenaesque (I wasn’t expecting much else tbh) and certainly doesn’t clock at 6% – it’s drinkable enough if expectations are low. The Czech pils is reasonably to style – there is some DMS on the nose (noticeable enough that Justin picked it up) but nothing to stop you getting through a pint of it should the need arise. The honey ale is very very honeyed with notes of elderflower. Although the intense pot-pouri nose is strong, it’s not too sweet but the aroma does whack you. Their flagship Taj Mahal IPA (of course) is actually a NEIPA (they are very popular here). It tastes like ya standard NEIPA – lots of orange and light tropical notes, will please haze-heads but nothing exceptional. Overall for a brewery that’s focused on food and family (it’s teeming with small children – buyer beware) rather than groundbreaking brewing it does okay – definitely better than expected. Note service can be a bit slow (even when it’s quiet) – we circumvented this by ordering at the bar. Fun fact is beers come in 0.4l, 1l and a mighty 3l which is served in a mini keg-style dispenser which is brought to the table to keep the beer chilled.
The key places that we sadly missed are HOPA and Optimist, both centrally located and close to one another, with HOPA being Tbilisi’s first craft beer bar. Both have local and international offerings, and were on our list of places to visit but time ran away from us, the way it does in a city with such an array of tempting beverage options, but both looked appealing and will be prioritised for future visits – any readers who make it there first please feel free to send feedback.
Also a quick shout out to Coffee Lair, our local coffee shop which had a seriously impressive selection of beer and cider – not your average coffee shop by any means.
Beyond beer, Tbilisi is just brimming with delightful bars that show off local wine and spirits. Look out for craft chacha, the grape liquor made from the pomace of qvevri wine grapes. While versions are available at all bars and restaurants, the fancy stuff is well worth seeking out, particularly if you’re able to locate a barrel aged version. Georgian gin is also a treat, and the local botanicals used in distillation offer up some tantalising flavour profiles. The cocktail scene in Tbilisi is sophisticated and fun. Mixology is high quality and menus are impressive in their imaginatory scope. Most bartenders speak English and are more than happy to answer questions, and if you’re about midweek when it’s quiet it’s easy to lose time chatting about all things alcohol (at least if you’re me). I could write a whole separate post on spirits and cocktails in Tbilisi and maybe sometime I will but til then, here’s my list of top recs:
House of Juniper – fantastic gin bar featuring local and international products and crackin cocktail list, be sure to ask what’s off-menu too
Gin Corner – big sister to HoJ, also great but the space and menu are better at HoJ
L’ADO by Valiko Mansion – Budapest ruin bar-style space, cool and artsy
Saamuri – natural wine bar inside Fabrika, good drinks selection and very helpful staff
Wine Not? – the best place for qvevri and chacha in Tbilisi
Dadi wine bar – excellent for an educational and delicious qvevri experience
Veritas wine bar – do the free tasting then enjoy a glass in their lovely cosy bar
Senior’s – serves NaturAle craft beer on tap plus crackin cocktails – we met the owner who is wonderful
Chacha Time – the place to go for chacha flights, cocktails and service also both on point
Lolita – very hip cocktail bar
Tipsy Rock – dive bar with cocktails, music, dancing and thoroughly awesome people
41 degrees Art of Drinks – the best cocktails with chacha (and possibly the best cocktails full stop) in Tbilisi
Overall, the drinks scene in Tbilisi kicks and I feel like despite the length of this list we barely scratched the surface. This is a city that takes its booze seriously in both quality and quantity and I could have explored for another week without running out of new spots. One last tip – places to avoid include Capital Factory and the old town centre – both are nasty tourist traps that completely waste time that could be spent on all these amazing places. Happy travels!
Craft Beer Amethyst 